Pages of the Past

Uzbekistan at the “Fortunate Conjunction”: A Quest to Form a National Identity

Uzbekistan and greater central Asia fell under the control of the USSR from 1924 until its collapse in 1991. During those 80 years, the Uzbek people suffered from a lack of political autonomy, suppression of religion, and economic scarcity under communist rule. The Art of Uzbek Cooking, written in 1999, cemented the idea that food could become a tool to recreate and cement Uzbek national identity. To make Uzbekistan, one must make Uzbeki people, with a shared culture, or what one historian called an “imagined community.” Through a revitalization of Islam, making the most out of an unfortunate economic situation, and sharing homemade food with strangers and friends, the Uzbekistanis have asserted not just a national identity, but a culture based on Islam, hospitality, and proud traditional foodways.

An Identity Through Islam

Central Asia has historically been a center of Islam, and Uzbekistan is a Muslim-majority nation, with about 80% of the population identifying with Islam. Suppressed by Stalin and the Soviet Union when they took power, most religious activity went underground. After the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, a strong Islamic revitalization has occurred.

There was not one specific sect of Islam practiced in Uzbekistan, and former autocratic President Karimov (1989-2016) enforced a more secular version of Islam with a strict separation of church and state. Men could not grow beards, women were not allowed to veil, and women were not allowed to go to Friday services at mosques without approval. He feared that too much influence from the religion could produce a caliphate-like government. He imprisoned his political opponent and imposed censorship on the media.

Despite such limitations, the Islamic faith grew during his reign. In particular, young adults embraced Islam, perhaps as a rejection of communism, a way of joining a spiritual community, or as a way to assert their cultural heritage.

Identity Through Economic Status

When president Karimov first came into power, he had declared that under his rule, he would never raise the price of bread. That didn’t necessarily mean it would be available or the people would have the money for it. So, even after the fall of the Soviet Union, Uzbeks still suffered with empty grocery shelves, or food that was simply too expensive. People who could grow their own food, especially in rural areas, would preserve it and sell, trade, or give it to their neighbors. People prided themselves on frugality and making do with what they have, embracing traditional peasant cuisine.

Western foodstuffs were slow to enter Uzbekistan. When they did arrive, Uzbeks rarely bought them as they were expensive and not always better quality. While some who could afford the imported goods did buy them, and it became a status symbol to drink Nestlé’s water or eat Snickers. Others, however, including young Uzbeks, prefer palov and manti dumplings over pizza and burgers.

An Identity Through Culture and Hospitality

Community and hospitality have always been a prominent part of Uzbek and Islamic culture. They say that “a guest is God’s friend” and their arrival is treated as a great blessing. Tea is of particular importance as part of hospitality and welcoming people into one’s house.

The custom of inviting strangers into one’s home birthed the concept of the “home restaurant,” one of the greatest prides of Uzbekistan. It is normal to see older women on the streets of their towns calling out to people passing by, often having to compete against neighbors to lure customers. The number of dishes served at a lunch can vary household by household, but the table will always be full. If someone accepts, they’ll discuss payment with the host and then are invited inside. Fairly regularly, one would be eating with the host’s family or other guests.

Food is sacred within Uzbek culture, and the act of sharing a meal with someone else is very important in terms of community. They look out for their neighbor, if others have the resources, then it is their responsibility to feed others who may go hungry.

Sources

Neuburger, Mary, and Keith Livers. “Introduction: From Revolution to Globalization: Foodways in Russia and East-Central Europe.” Gastronomica, vol. 17, no. 4, winter 2017, pp. 1–8, https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2017.17.4.1. 

Rosenberger, Nancy. “Patriotic Appetites and Gnawing Hungers: Food and the Paradox of Nation-building in Uzbekistan.” Ethnos, vol. 72, no. 3, Sept. 2007, pp. 339–360, https://doi.org/10.1080/00141840701576950. 

Sengupt, Anita. “The Making of a Religious Identity: Islam and the State in Uzbekistan.” Economic and Political Weekly, vol. 34, no. 52, 25 Dec. 1999, pp. 3649–3652, https://www.jstor.org/stable/4408762. 

Visson, Lynn. The Art of Uzbek Cooking. Hippocrene Books, 1999. 

Weisbrode, Kenneth. “Uzbekistan: In the Shadow of Tamerlane.” World Policy Journal, vol. 14, no. 1, spring 1997, pp. 53–60, https://www.jstor.org/stable/40209517.