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Clarifying Butter

Food History Exhibit (Spring 2023)

Fats and Oils in Africa

Fats and Oils in Africa

Africa, the second largest continent, has great biodiversity. As such, people across it incorporate a range of fats and oils into their diets. Many fats come from indigenous plants, some of which are either not well known—or misunderstood—outside of Africa. Palm oil, argan oil and dawadawa offer health benefits, distinct culinary traditions, and flavors, in particular in northern and western Africa.  Frequently vilified since the days of colonialism and imperialism, such fats are labeled as unhealthy and unsustainable, yet this would be erroneous. Instead, traditional practices aid local economies, cement communities, and create a visible and palatable resiliency across Africa.

Palm Oil

Palm oil is the most commonly used oil and fat in Africa. Palm oil is indigenous to West Africa and has been an active part of the Ghanaian diet since 3000 BCE. Known as one of the most useful trees in Africa, the palm grows fruit that is a soft velvet red. When eating high-quality palm, oil, it does not have an oily taste or aftertaste; rather, it is often described as rich as cow’s-milk butter. Compared to olive oil, palm oil’s flavor profile depends on the oil’s grade. Palm oil has a savory earthy flavor, and has a similar flavor profile to a carrot, or pumpkin and gives the dish a rich, red color. The Ewe people (Ghana) add a variety of seasonings and ginger to the palm oil to create zomi oil. Typically, every part of the plant is utilized from the stems and roots. Palm oil is an important component of a lot of ritual dishes and medicines.

Palm has natural beta-carotene and is high in antioxidants with vitamins A and E. Palm oil is rich in oleic acid and low in saturates. Carotene gives the red color to palm oil. Unlike what most people believe, palm oil, in moderate amounts, is not unhealthy if not heavily processed. Today, large-scale processing of palm oil ends by bleaching it, which removes the color, any vitamins, and potential health benefits from the oil.

When palm oil is added to the diet your HDL (good cholesterol) levels rise. Palm-nut soup is extremely popular, it is made with the fruit of the tree that is known as palm nuts. The soup includes strained pulp and oil from the fruit and is a staple at many festivals in West Africa. Using palm oil in soups not only gives it the iconic color but also adds richness, texture, and a depth of flavor. It is also used for a significant amount of frying because of the high smoking point. The palm oil industry became a pillar of national growth and role employment for Ghana.

 Nuts, and Beans: Dawa-Dawa

Nuts

Nuts like Bambara groundnuts and peanuts are usually added as a source of protein and fat to African dishes. Bambara groundnut is the most common nut used in African cuisine, along with the peanut. These two legumes have very similar flavor profiles, and they are often confused with one another in dishes. However, Bambara groundnuts that are indigenous to Africa and are slightly sweeter but, because they are lower in fat than peanuts, they are not pressed to extract their oil. This groundnut is a “complete food” because of how nutrient dense it is. It has 64.4% carbohydrates, 23.3% in protein, 5.5% fiber, and 6.5% fat and is filled with minerals.

Peanuts, conversely, are indigenous to Bolivia and were brought to Africa by conquistadors during the 15th century. Today, both legumes are interchangeable in the kitchen. Maafe, (groundnut soup) is a staple West African dish and traveled across the Atlantic during the Middle Passage.

Peanuts are extremely popular in African cuisine because of their high oil content, which is 45-50% and allows for the oil to be extracted. Peanut oil has a high smoking point compared to other oilseed crops. They have 25.8 grams of protein, 49.2 grams of fat, 8.5 grams of fiber, and 8.5 grams of fiber.

Dawadawa

Dawadawa is a thick paste made from fermented African locust tree pods (Parkia biglobosa) and are typically used for seasoning, soups, and sauces. Full of lipids (which include fats), the pods are boiled until the outer shell is loose and lightly pounded, and fermented in a porous vessel and stored underground, which allows the development of mucilaginous material. This condiment is produced and consumed mostly across West Africa. Dawadawa was used in everyday cooking in soups and stews but has now been replaced by a more modern version of bouillon cubes.  

Manufacturing the dawadawa is an extensive and laborious process. Bouillon cubes became the more convenient version of dawadawa, yet at a loss. Dawadawa contributes protein and fat, 100 grams of bean paste contains 37.2 grams of protein and 35.5 grams of fat. Dawadawa is high in lysine content, which makes it a key source of amino acids. The amino acids help the body make use of the protein available. This fermented food remains relevant in local dietary practices because of its various contributions to nutritional health.

With regional economic inequalities in Ghana, mostly displayed in the rates of food security and health, dawadawa holds particular significance. In the upper western areas of Ghana, dawadawa is seen by many native Africans as an important flavor enhancer that can also prevent certain illnesses like malaria. Because of this, many older African women say they will not substitute dawa-dawa for bouillon because it does not provide the same source of health. Just like the shae tree, the African lotus bean tree is deemed protected by traditional authorities who enforce, local land and reinforcement laws. This traditional African seasoning paste should be more recognized in African cuisine.

Argan Oil: Liquid Gold

Argan oil is a staple for flavor in Morocco. The Argania Spinosa grows in the southwest of Morocco and is extracted from an Argan fruit. The argan fruit is harvested by black billy goats that climb into the argan tree and eat the ripe fruit.  These goats, however, are unable to ingest/digest the seeds and expectorate or defecate them during the digestion process. This process aids in the continuity of the crop, for if the goat has traveled far enough away from the mother tree, the seed has a better chance of surviving when the goat expectorates it.

Argan oil, made from pressing the seeds, has many benefits it is rich in fatty acids, vitamin E, and antioxidants and has great remedial properties. It is beneficial to juvenile acne, and forms of rheumatism, and has rejuvenation properties. These benefits give Argan oil a lot of attention not only in the culinary work but in the cosmetic world too.

Because of the intense labor in producing it, argan oil is expensive and often adulterated. Pure oil, however, is nutty in flavor and can be found in traditional North African dishes. Amlou is a common sweet spread that is made with argan oil, ground almonds, and honey. This spread is typically eaten with hobz, a warm bread. Argan oil also has a high smoking point, making it perfect for frying. A traditional breakfast that is eaten has eggs that are fried in argan oil and served with cumin.


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