Clarifying Butter

Sesame in East Asia 

Sesame seeds are native to grasslands in the African continent and the Indus Valley. Grown as a rain-fed crop, scholars argue that sesame oil is the oldest oil seed plant used by people. Introduced to China during the Han dynasty (300 BCE), it is one of the plant-based oils that is often used in Asian cuisine. Containing 45-55% oil and 36% protein, there are two ways to collect oil: the hot pressure method and the cold pressure method. Sesame oil is used to add fat and flavor to a recipe, used as a medium for cooking, including stir-frying, or the seeds are used whole or crushed to add seasoning and texture. It is also made into a paste and used in a dipping sauce or as an ingredient in noodle sauces or as a spread.

Sesame Oil and Seeds in China 

Sesame seeds have been cultivated in China since 300 BCE and spread to Korea and, later, to Japan. In traditional Chinese medicine, sesame seeds and oil are considered a “yin tonic,” or “cooling” and giving moisture to the body to keep it in balance, and especially good for kidney function.

The culinary uses of sesame seeds and sesame oil is ubiquitous in Chinese cuisine, from being a key ingredient in Sesame Tong Shui, a Cantonese black sesame soup, to Bang Bang Chicken, a Szechuan dish made with sesame paste, sesame oil, and garnished with sesame seeds, to Tang Yuan, sweet rice balls with black sesame filling that are served during the Lantern Festival.

Sesame Seeds and Oil in Japan

Sesame oil was the traditional form of oil during the Nara period (710 to 784 CE). A precious commodity, imperial palace taxes were paid in sesame seeds and the price was 45 times that of rice. Sesame oil was incorporated into the indigenous religious tradition, Shinto, and devoted followers offered sesame oil to the deities at Shinto shrines and, later, Buddhist temples.

In Japan, sesame oil is used as a condiment and as a frying agent or to add body to sauces. They used pure oil as a deep-frying dish or as a paste. Compared to Korean sesame oil, it has a lighter scent and taste and a higher burning point. Japanese use the cold pressure method whereby seeds are squeezed by pressing them without roasting them. And it can be used for fried food because it has a high burning point.

The practice of frying foods in Japan was introduced by the Portuguese in the 16^th century, and the word “tempura” comes from the Latin “ad tempora cuaresme” or “in the time of Lent” (see fat and the Abrahamic religions in this exhibit). Today, there are two traditional styles of tempura in Japan: Nagasaki style, which is fried in lard, and Kamigata-syle (from Kyoto) and Edo (Tokyo) style where the food is fried in a blend of vegetable and sesame oil. Of the later type, each tempura chef has his/her own blend of up to 20% sesame oil used to make the fried foods.

Sesame Seeds and Oil in Korea 

Sesame oil gained popularity during the Unified Silla Period (668-935 CE), along with rice and stored fermented foods. Historical records document that sesame oil was sent as a tribute to China during the 10^th century Goryeo Dynasty, sesame oil mills were prohibited several times over the centuries, there was sesame oil-pressing specialists, and bottles of sesame oil were  ubiquitous, suggesting that it was not exclusive to the upper class but also consumed by commoners.

The food that uses sesame oil the most is Yumilgwa (Korean traditional confectionary). During the Goryeo Dynasty, historical records mention yumilgwa at the banquet celebrating national events and public works. The Palgwanhoe, a Buddhist Festival of Eight Vows, began to be held from the first year of King Taejo (918), and each consecutive year, adding to great demand for sesame oil. From the Goryeo Dynasty to the Joseon Dynasty, yumilgwa was served during national ceremonies, banquet tables, and public relation spectacles. In the General Book of Regulations (circa 1825), "Yumilgwa is a yakgwa because wheat is the best of all medicines, honey is the best of all medicines, and oil kills and detoxifies insects."

Korean sesame oil is hot pressure method and made by frying sesame seeds at a temperature higher than 210 degrees Celsius, activating oil and then pressing them. They were used as a main ingredient such as powder or sesame oil. In addition, it is used for seasoning purposes in the form of roasted sesame seeds, sesame powder, or sesame salt.