Clarifying Butter

I Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter: Margarine, Shortening, and Nut Butters

Butter is arguably one of the most beloved fats in the world. During times of war, changing diet recommendations and restrictions, however, butter alternatives have become increasingly more common. One of the first butter substitutions was margarine, invented in the end of the 19^th century, which paved the path for other alternatives later including vegetable shortening and nut butters (plant-based butters). 

Margarine

Margarine was invented in 1869 by French chemist Hippolyte Mege-Mouriez after Napoleon III requested a butter substitute be developed due to impending war between France and Prussia. It was originally made with beef tallow which gave it the name, oleomargarine.

With its arrival in the United States, in 1871, heavy restrictions were placed on the production and selling of margarine when the dairy industry lobbied against it, fearing butter sales dropping if underpriced or if consumers became confused. Indeed, one proposal was that margarine should be colored pink, instead of buttery yellow, and in some states between 1881-1950, including butter-producing Wisconsin, it was outlawed. Although the sales of margarine never did reach the level of butter’s sales, it did rise during WWI and WWII and was very popular among the working poor who could not regularly afford butter.

The Margarine Act of 1950 by the US government overturned many of the legal restrictions initially placed on its sales. By now, it was also made using hydrogenated vegetable oils instead of beef tallow. In addition to being a cheaper alternative to butter, or as a substitute during the wars, with the technology of hydrogenation being patented in 1902, it has evolved to include other products such as vegetable shortenings and vegan butter allowing the option of alternative products for different lifestyle choices.

During the 1960/70’s Americans became increasingly concerned about their health. More people wanted to consume less butter because of the negative health effects associated with saturated fats and how many calories it contained. Instead of the famous pair of butter on toast, it became margarine on toast. People would also start cooking and baking more with margarine because they thought it was healthier than butter. Many advertisements came out as well to promote more margarine use.

Crisco

In 1911 Crisco was invented by Procter and Gamble as an all-vegetable shortening and alternative to lard. Crisco is made by partially hydrogenated vegetable fats. Hydrogenation is a process which alters a liquid fat form and turns it into a solid. Since Crisco is partially hydrogenated it creates a semi-solid product and it also incorporates trans-fat during the process. It was developed to be used in various cooking techniques such as baking, frying, and sauteing. It’s classically known in baking pastries and desserts, especially pies, and producing the most amazingly flakey crust.

Many guides were produced by Procter and Gamble to inform consumers about their new product and used it as a form of advertisement. Crisco provided a fat source for people who avoided specific meat products, which included the Jewish community. Many Jewish immigrants did not have the necessary tools or ingredients for being able to practice kosher laws, however with the introduction of Crisco it was helpful to many for meeting their kosher requirements.

While trans-fats found in partially hydrogenated vegetable fats were once considered a solution to the saturated fats dilemma, beginning in 1987, trans-fats were deemed to be unhealthy. Since then, nutritionists and doctors encouraged that trans-fats listed on nutrition labels and since 2020, the USDA has banned their use.

Plant-based Alternative Butters Today

While the term “vegan” dates to the 1940s, the concept of veganism has been around for centuries. Vegan butters are plant-based butter alternatives that also tend to be partially hydrogenated to make it shelf stable for commercial production and can provide an array of health benefits. The popularity of plant-based diets has increased due to personal choices, the desire to live more sustainability, and the health benefits of a vegetarian or vegan lifestyle. Some examples of vegan butter are: pumpkin seed butter (low in calories and fat), almond butter (high in calcium and fiber), sunflower butter (vitamin E and a good source of iron, magnesium, and zinc).